A Repo for the Magnetic case of the Sweep keyboard
Content:
- Preface
- The case
- Bill of Materials
- Keyboard sourcing
- How to print
- Magnets
- Files
- Tangented
- Travel Case
- More Pics
- Legend
- License
If you build a lot of keyboards or repair them, you know the hassle of having to open the cases, screw/ unscrew and taking apart the whole thing everytime you need to reflow a solder point, an led or maybe even just reset the MCU. Also for any sweep build you'll need to have alot of screws and a few standoffs just to keep the halfs together. With the Msweep you dont need to unscrew anything to access the PCB or any screw or standoff to use this case. In other magnetic cases i used to embedd the magnets in the print. That brought some problems with it, that made the process really strenuous. So now the magnets get glued into the case. But because of the postion of the magnets, you only see them if you pull the halfs apart or look at the bottom of the case, because the Case supports magnetic tenting legs and has magnets on the bottom of the case.
Feel free to join the Discord Server, if you have questions about the case or just want to have a chat: https://discord.gg/TRQFN7fyU5
To print this case youll need:
- about 115 gramms of Filament
- 24 Neodymium Magnets (10mm x 2mm x 2mm)
- (Optional for tenting) 4 Neodymium Magnets round (10mm x 1mm)
- (Optional for tenting) 4 Neodymium Magnets in shape of a ring (10mm x 3,5mm) with a hole for a screw
- (Optional for Travel Case) 12 Neodymium Magnets (10mm x 2mm x 2mm)
- Strong glue for the magnets
For this Sweep build i used the Aurora Sweep kit from Splitkb.com. That kit offers all the bells and whistles you could ask for. Here is a link to the Aurora Sweep Kit. You can get everything you need out of one Hand and dont need to order in multiple stores. I made a mx build with Underglow and Backlight LEDs, i also added OLEDs. Those things can be added directly to the kit. They even offer documentation for trouble shooting and they have full build guides for their Aurora kits. I added mill max sockets and pins to my build and the Elite-Pi controller to be the brain of my Sweep build.
I always print in PLA, but you can use any filament for the case. ABS/ASA and Filament that require an enclosure are difficult to work with. The printer and your settings for ASA and ABS must be on point so that the magnet pockets will be in the correct size. I recommend PLA because it has the best surface finish and is super easy to work with, any printer can print it.
- 0.20 layer hight
- 3 Parimeters
- 3 Top and Bottom layers
- 15% Infill
- 205°C Filament temp
- 60°C Bed Temp
The print is pretty straight forward. Only little thing that needs to be done is adding a bit of support for the front edge because there is a overhang with a curve, and you cant print curves in the air. So it needs support on this spot. If you want to make the top finish extra nice you can iron it or just reduce the flow for the toplayer to about 91%.
Only thing to thing about here is the reduced flow or the ironing for the toplayer. because its the mate area for the top part. So setting the toplayer extrusion to 91% or just iron the last layer goes along way.
If you want to get a see trough bottom like i did, which most should want if the install the LEDs, you need to add a pause while printing. You can use the M600 command for that, if your printer supports that. For klipper printers you need to create a macro with the name M600 and just point to the pause function of klipper. Marlin and the Prusa Firmware have the M600 command baked into them nativly, im not sure about the bambu firmware. The pause is at layer 11, a height of 2.2 mm.
Print 4 of them upright. But you need a brim to have enough surface that sticks to the build plate or it will get loose while printing. They are 20mm long and give a decent tenting, but not to steep. If you prefer steeper or lower tenting just increase or decrease the hight with your slicer.
This is often the hardest part, because the sizes i use are not available everywhere. There is very good availability in Germany and good availability in the Eu. Outside of the Eu its problematic to get them. I dont know why this is. If you find local or global sellers outside the EU please let me know.
Here is where the Msweep differs from the Mcorne cases. The Magnets are not embedded in the print anymore. That has a few upsides.
- The print doesnt need to be stopped mid print that allows more printers to run the Gcode, because some models dont have the M600 command to pause the print automatically. There is no problem with the fitting of the magnets, the pockets are bigger and wider, which helps with tolerances. The pausing of the print brings discoloration of the filament, because for a while the filament gets cooked in the Hotend. You dont need to stick around the printer for the whole time to put the magnets in when the printer halts.
- Stronger magnetic force holding the halfs together
- No more play between the halfs because of the plastic that seperates the magnets.
- modifying the magnets after wards. If they are embedded and have the wrong orientation, the print is lost. If they are glued in and the pockets are open, you can remove them and glue them back in in the right orientation.
Gluing them in is not that hard. There are 2 things you need to be careful about.
- The right orientation on the Magnets.
- Not using to much Glue, so youre not gluing the two halfs shut.
The orientation part is pretty easy. the first set of Magnets can just be inserted how you like. It is better to orienten them all the same way but not needed. If you have glued in the first set and waited for the Glue to dry. You can just put the Magnets for the Top half on top of the glued magnets. The attract each other and stay on top of each other. Add a bit of Glue in the pockets of the Top half. Make sure its not to much. Place the Top half on the table, pockets for the Magnets facing up. Now you can take the Bottom half with the extra set of Magnets on and put it on the Top half. Getting the Magnets into the pockets with the glue. Check that there is no excess glue thats coming out of the pockets. Press the halfs firmly together. Leave them for awhile to dry. When the Glue is dry you can seperate the halfs by lightly twisting. That helps to put not to much stress on the Glue, in case its not 100% dry yet. You can repeat the same steps with the other side.
- Bottom_v1_1.stl
- top_v1_1.stl
- Tenting_20mm.stl
- travel_case_2.stl
The .stl are to slice yourself.
- Magnetic tenting legs - Added
- Msweep Travel Case - Added
- Msweep alu version - big maybe
- MCU = Microcontroller unit
Print and modify all you want, but please dont sell my desgin (digital or printed).