diff --git a/docs/hardware/axes.md b/docs/hardware/axes.md index 0020cb44..38a7af84 100644 --- a/docs/hardware/axes.md +++ b/docs/hardware/axes.md @@ -668,89 +668,64 @@ The top end of the rod is completely unguided. In between it's guided and secure But what's the advantage of using a layer height of 0.15mm (where a somewhat unprecise microstepping has to be used) instead of just choosing 0.16mm layer height (which consists of full steps)? Exactly - there isn't any advantage. So, imho: yes, it's worth paying attention to this, because if we can somewhat improve the quality and accuracy of a print by just making one smart decision - then why shouldn't we do it? + --- +### Lead Screw -### Z-Axis Motor -The motor of the y-axis is a 42-34 Nema 17 stepper motor with a 5mm motor shaft. It seems to be a regular 1.8° stepper, which means the shaft turns 1.8° at each steps, and therefore it's doing 200 steps for one full 360° rotation. +The printers have one lead screw only. It's a T8x8 type (8mm diameter, 8mm lead, 2mm pitch, 4 starts) of 350mm length. -![Z stepper mounting](../assets/images/axes_z-stepper-mounting_web.jpg) +--- -![Z- stepper underside](../assets/images/axes_Z-motor_underside_web.jpg) +### Anti-Backlash Nut +The stock anti-backlash nut is made from plastic with POM in the inside where the lead screw runs along. +The nut is made out of two parts which are spring loaded and it's mounted to the x-axis gantry as shown in the following picture. -Pay attention to the mounting of the motor. It's only mounted with that little bracket using two screws - the back and the base of the motor are actually not supported as you can see in the picture above. -That most likely leads to the fact that the whole motor can bend a little bit due to the axial load of the lead screw system, so it's a good idea to actually support the motor by putting something sufficient underneath and/or between the motor and the aluminum frame where it's actually mounted to. I personally added a big/wide nylon shim underneath it. +![Mounted nut](../assets/images/axes_ab-nut_mounted_web.jpg) -As there aren't any specifications and replacement motors from Anycubic being available, you can either use a motor with the beforementioned specs or get yourself a motor from a Creality Ender 3 (or one that's advertised to fit that printer). +When receiving the machine and when dis-/mounting the lead screw, you need to make sure that the anit-backlash nut is installed being pressed together, so that the spring is loaded. The following pictures show you the unloaded anti-backlash nut and the nut being pressed together. -!!! warning "Attention When Connecting The 'Creality'-Type Motor!" +| Nut with unloaded spring | Nut being pressed together | +|:------------:|:----------------------:| +| ![Unloaded](../assets/images/axes_ab-nut_web.jpg) | ![Loaded](../assets/images/axes_ab-nut_pressed-together_web.jpg) | - As the connections of the stock vs a 'Creality'-type motor are different due to different pinouts of the coils, you need to make sure you connect it correctly! - Therefore you need to switch the position of two wires, best would be to check the coils with a multimeter first! - Please read the expandable textbox below for further information. - -??? example "Identifying The Coils And Connections" +So as you can see in the first picture of the mounted nut, it looks like it hasn't been pushed together while being installed. To be safe, it's advisable to take out the lead screw in this case, press the nut together and put the screw back in while holding the nut being pressed together. - When you want to use a different motor than the stock ones, it's most likely the case that the coils are connected to different pins of the 6 pin connector of the motor. - The best would be if you take a multimeter and probe the pins to see which ones belong to a coil. So let me go over this procedure really quick - don't worry, you can't harm the motor by doing the following. - - Take your multimeter and set it either to continuity measurement or to resistance measurement. Either one will work - if you have the option for continuity measurements, choose that one though as they often offer a little buzzer which makes a sound when continuity is given. - - Unplug the motor (of course) and hold one of the two probes of the multimeter to one of the pins of the 6 pin connector of the motor. I personally like to start at the left side, so hold one probe onto the very left pin. - Then use the other probe and touch the other pins - one after another. - Make sure that both tips of your probes really make contact to the desired pins. Once you found the corresponding pin for the very left sided pin you placed your first probe onto, mark that. - Then move the probe to the next pin and repeat the process. - In the end you'll come up with having two 'paired' pins identified - each pair belongs to one coil. - - Now look at the following picture and compare your findings with the marked pins of the two coils of the upper "Stock Motor" (mind that the picture shows the motor of the y-axis right now, but it's actually the same pinout and probing procedure at the z-axis motor). +--- + +#### MOD: Different Anti-Backlash Nut - ![Marked motor pins](../assets/images/axes_y-motor_stock-creality_pinout-marked_web.jpg) - - If the pairing of your probed pins is the same - fine, you can connect the motor right away. - - If the pairing is different, like at the Creality motor shown in the picture, you need to pull out two wires of the connector of the motor cable (one wire of one coil each!), switch them accordingly and insert them back in the connector housing. - At the shown example with the stock vs. the Creality motor, you'd just switch the position of the two inner wires here. +If the anti-backlash nut that came with the printer is worn out like shown in the picture below, you should look out for a new one. - You can pull out the wires (inclduing the attached metal contacts) by pressing down a tiny metal latch of that contact. - Take something like a needle or a tiny screwdriver for that. Gently press that latch down and slightly pull on the wire - the wire with the contact being attached will come out. - Once you put it into the correct position, just push it back into the belonging hole - but mind the orientation! You might hear a little "click" sound, but check if the wire really got into position by looking after that latch and by pulling at the wire - it shouldn't come out. +![Worn out nut](../assets/images/axes_worn-nut_web.jpg) - After a final check if everything is still ok, connect the motor - it should work now. +The nut shown at the picture above is still useable though as it still sits tight on the rod. +However, sooner or later the debris will come off again and stick on the rod which may causes jams or stuttering of the z-axis movement. +These stock anti-backlash nuts used by Anycubic are pretty hard to find as a spare part though - and *if* you find them, they're most likely ridiculously overpriced. - If it happens that the polarity of the coils/wiring is wrong, you'll experience a stuttering and probably noise-making motor. In that case proceed as above and switch the wiring accordingly. +There are spring loaded anti-backlash nuts made of brass and POM for this kind of lead screw available as well, you can also use them. The following picture shows the stock anti-backlash nut at the left side, a spring loaded brass one in the middle and a spring loaded POM one on the right side. +![Anti-backlash nuts](../assets/images/axes_ab-nuts_web.jpg) ---- - -### Limit Switch - -The optical limit switch of the z-axis is located at the bottom of the left z-axis aluminum profile. - -![z-axis limit switch](../assets/images/axes_z-limitswitch_web.jpeg) - -The little metal lever that triggers the switch is mounted to the left bracket of the x-axis gantry. When the gantry moves down, the lever slides into that slot of the optical switch and triggers it. - -The following pictures show the disassembled limit switch, just in case you're looking out for a suitable third party manufactured replacement. +However, the distance of the threads of the stock anti-backlash nut is 20mm, the ones of the 'regular' ones being available are either 16mm or 18mm - at least I personally didn't find any of them with 20mm distance. The 16mm obviously won't fit, but as the holes of the bracket where you actually mount this nut to are a bit elongated, so nuts with a thread distance of 18mm do actually fit as the following picture shows. -![z-axis limit switch open](../assets/images/axes_z-limit_open_web.jpg) +![Brass anti-backlash nut mounted](../assets/images/axes_brass-ab-nut_web.jpg) + +Whichever spring loaded anti-backlash nut you (re-)install, make sure that you press both parts together when putting the lead screw in. There's a little spring between the upper and the lower part of the nut which is there to prevent the backlash. This spring needs to be pushed together during the installation, so that there's tension and both parts of that nut system are being pushed away from each other when installed. -![z-axis limit switch, sideview](../assets/images/axes_z-limit_sideview-bare_web.jpg) +If you installed a regular nut like in the picture shown below instead of an anti-backlash nut, I suggest to use a anti-backlash nut as the ones shown above instead. -![z-axis limit switch, size](../assets/images/axes_z-limit-size-bare_web.jpg) +![Regular nut](../assets/images/axes_regular-nut_web.jpg) -??? example "Checking The Switches (And Wires)" - You can check if the switch really isn't working by triggering it manually while the belonging axis is moving. If the movement doesn't stop, turn off your printer. Check the connectors at the switch and the mainboard if they're still in place. - If everything looks fine here, then it's most likey that either a wire is broken or the switch itself is faulty. If you have a multimeter, you could measure if the switch itself is working as well as check the wires. When measuring the wires, move them around as it may be the case that a wire is slightly broken inside of the insulation and that it loses contact in a certain position of the wire itself. - If the wire is broken, fix it or install a new one. If the limit switch itself is broken, disassemble the switch from the frame and put in a new one. Wire everything up again and try again triggering it manually to see if it works now. --- -### MOD: Z-Axis Upgrades +### Coupler +The lead screw is mounted to the shaft of the z-axis motor with a rigid coupler. +The coupler is 5mm ID at one side for taking the 5mm shaft of the motor and 8mm ID at the other side for taking the 8mm lead screw. -I personally recommend to do some small modifications to the whole z-axis lead screw system. -Start with swapping out the stock coupler and adding an Oldham Coupler as that'll already be a huge improvement. -You can always upgrade a second lead screw for example, but the beforementioned parts will be useful in that case as well. +![Coupler](../assets/images/axes_stock-coupler_web.jpg) --- @@ -769,14 +744,14 @@ Besides that, using a clamp mechanism makes sure that the shaft and the lead scr --- -##### Spider Coupler +##### MOD: Spider Coupler Spider couplers are made out of two metal parts with an elastic part in between as you can see at the following picture. ![Spider coupler](../assets/images/axes_spider-coupler_web.jpg) --- -##### Spring(y) Coupler +##### MOD: Spring(y) Coupler The next picture shows the type of coupler you probably com earound instantly when searching for "flex coupler" - I call it "spring(y) coupler" as it's shaped like a spring and it actually behaves like one as well. ![Flex coupler](../assets/images/axes_flexcoupler_web.jpg) @@ -795,7 +770,7 @@ Additionally, I also added a nylon washer of the correct thickness underneath th --- -##### Diaphragm Coupler +##### MOD: Diaphragm Coupler There's also another type of coupler available, the so called "Diaphragm Coupling". This one is bigger and is supposed to compensate misalignments even better. However, it seems like that some additional dampening occurs, which usually isn't adviseable for the z-axis (there are motor dampeners available on the market which you mount between the motors and the frame to dampen vibrations - those ones shouldn't be added to the z-axis motor though), but I personally didn't use this type yet, so I can't really say anything further about it. @@ -804,38 +779,91 @@ The following picture shows this type of coupler - for comaring the size, the sp ![Diaphragm Coupler vs Spider Coupler](../assets/images/axes_diaphragm-coupler_web.jpg) - --- + +### Z-Axis Motor +The motor of the y-axis is a 42-34 Nema 17 stepper motor with a 5mm motor shaft. It seems to be a regular 1.8° stepper, which means the shaft turns 1.8° at each steps, and therefore it's doing 200 steps for one full 360° rotation. + +![Z stepper mounting](../assets/images/axes_z-stepper-mounting_web.jpg) + +![Z- stepper underside](../assets/images/axes_Z-motor_underside_web.jpg) + +Pay attention to the mounting of the motor. It's only mounted with that little bracket using two screws - the back and the base of the motor are actually not supported as you can see in the picture above. +That most likely leads to the fact that the whole motor can bend a little bit due to the axial load of the lead screw system, so it's a good idea to actually support the motor by putting something sufficient underneath and/or between the motor and the aluminum frame where it's actually mounted to. I personally added a big/wide nylon shim underneath it. + +As there aren't any specifications and replacement motors from Anycubic being available, you can either use a motor with the beforementioned specs or get yourself a motor from a Creality Ender 3 (or one that's advertised to fit that printer). + +!!! warning "Attention When Connecting The 'Creality'-Type Motor!" + + As the connections of the stock vs a 'Creality'-type motor are different due to different pinouts of the coils, you need to make sure you connect it correctly! + Therefore you need to switch the position of two wires, best would be to check the coils with a multimeter first! + Please read the expandable textbox below for further information. + +??? example "Identifying The Coils And Connections" + + When you want to use a different motor than the stock ones, it's most likely the case that the coils are connected to different pins of the 6 pin connector of the motor. + The best would be if you take a multimeter and probe the pins to see which ones belong to a coil. So let me go over this procedure really quick - don't worry, you can't harm the motor by doing the following. -#### MOD: Changing The Anti-Backlash Nut + Take your multimeter and set it either to continuity measurement or to resistance measurement. Either one will work - if you have the option for continuity measurements, choose that one though as they often offer a little buzzer which makes a sound when continuity is given. + + Unplug the motor (of course) and hold one of the two probes of the multimeter to one of the pins of the 6 pin connector of the motor. I personally like to start at the left side, so hold one probe onto the very left pin. + Then use the other probe and touch the other pins - one after another. + Make sure that both tips of your probes really make contact to the desired pins. Once you found the corresponding pin for the very left sided pin you placed your first probe onto, mark that. + Then move the probe to the next pin and repeat the process. + In the end you'll come up with having two 'paired' pins identified - each pair belongs to one coil. + + Now look at the following picture and compare your findings with the marked pins of the two coils of the upper "Stock Motor" (mind that the picture shows the motor of the y-axis right now, but it's actually the same pinout and probing procedure at the z-axis motor). -If the anti-backlash nut that came with the printer is worn out like shown in the picture below, you should look out for a new one. + ![Marked motor pins](../assets/images/axes_y-motor_stock-creality_pinout-marked_web.jpg) -![Worn out nut](../assets/images/axes_worn-nut_web.jpg) + If the pairing of your probed pins is the same - fine, you can connect the motor right away. -The nut shown at the picture above is still useable though as it still sits tight on the rod. -However, sooner or later the debris will come off again and stick on the rod which may causes jams or stuttering of the z-axis movement. -These stock anti-backlash nuts used by Anycubic are pretty hard to find as a spare part though - and *if* you find them, they're most likely ridiculously overpriced. + If the pairing is different, like at the Creality motor shown in the picture, you need to pull out two wires of the connector of the motor cable (one wire of one coil each!), switch them accordingly and insert them back in the connector housing. + At the shown example with the stock vs. the Creality motor, you'd just switch the position of the two inner wires here. -There are spring loaded anti-backlash nuts made of brass and POM for this kind of lead screw available as well, you can also use them. The following picture shows the stock anti-backlash nut at the left side, a spring loaded brass one in the middle and a spring loaded POM one on the right side. + You can pull out the wires (inclduing the attached metal contacts) by pressing down a tiny metal latch of that contact. + Take something like a needle or a tiny screwdriver for that. Gently press that latch down and slightly pull on the wire - the wire with the contact being attached will come out. + Once you put it into the correct position, just push it back into the belonging hole - but mind the orientation! You might hear a little "click" sound, but check if the wire really got into position by looking after that latch and by pulling at the wire - it shouldn't come out. -![Anti-backlash nuts](../assets/images/axes_ab-nuts_web.jpg) + After a final check if everything is still ok, connect the motor - it should work now. -However, the distance of the threads of the stock anti-backlash nut is 20mm, the ones of the 'regular' ones being available are either 16mm or 18mm - at least I personally didn't find any of them with 20mm distance. The 16mm obviously won't fit, but as the holes of the bracket where you actually mount this nut to are a bit elongated, so nuts with a thread distance of 18mm do actually fit as the following picture shows. + If it happens that the polarity of the coils/wiring is wrong, you'll experience a stuttering and probably noise-making motor. In that case proceed as above and switch the wiring accordingly. + +--- -![Brass anti-backlash nut mounted](../assets/images/axes_brass-ab-nut_web.jpg) - -Whichever spring loaded anti-backlash nut you (re-)install, make sure that you press both parts together when putting the lead screw in. There's a little spring between the upper and the lower part of the nut which is there to prevent the backlash. This spring needs to be pushed together during the installation, so that there's tension and both parts of that nut system are being pushed away from each other when installed. +### Limit Switch -If you installed a regular nut like in the picture shown below instead of an anti-backlash nut, I suggest to use a anti-backlash nut as the ones shown above instead. +The optical limit switch of the z-axis is located at the bottom of the left z-axis aluminum profile. -![Regular nut](../assets/images/axes_regular-nut_web.jpg) +![z-axis limit switch](../assets/images/axes_z-limitswitch_web.jpeg) + +The little metal lever that triggers the switch is mounted to the left bracket of the x-axis gantry. When the gantry moves down, the lever slides into that slot of the optical switch and triggers it. ---- +The following pictures show the disassembled limit switch, just in case you're looking out for a suitable third party manufactured replacement. + +![z-axis limit switch open](../assets/images/axes_z-limit_open_web.jpg) + +![z-axis limit switch, sideview](../assets/images/axes_z-limit_sideview-bare_web.jpg) + +![z-axis limit switch, size](../assets/images/axes_z-limit-size-bare_web.jpg) + +??? example "Checking The Switches (And Wires)" + + You can check if the switch really isn't working by triggering it manually while the belonging axis is moving. If the movement doesn't stop, turn off your printer. Check the connectors at the switch and the mainboard if they're still in place. + If everything looks fine here, then it's most likey that either a wire is broken or the switch itself is faulty. If you have a multimeter, you could measure if the switch itself is working as well as check the wires. When measuring the wires, move them around as it may be the case that a wire is slightly broken inside of the insulation and that it loses contact in a certain position of the wire itself. + If the wire is broken, fix it or install a new one. If the limit switch itself is broken, disassemble the switch from the frame and put in a new one. Wire everything up again and try again triggering it manually to see if it works now. + +--- + +### Further MODs +Of course you can do further modifications of the whole lead screw system. +I'll mention some of the most common ones, where some are advisable to do and others aren't. + +--- #### MOD: Add An Oldham Coupler -I highly recommend adding a so called "Oldham Coupler". An Oldham Coupler is made out of three individual parts and it allows horizontal movement of the lead screw which avoids jamming, stuttering or banding caused by the z-axis not being perfectly aligned vertically. +I'd recommend adding a so called "Oldham Coupler". An Oldham Coupler is made out of three individual parts and it allows horizontal movement of the lead screw which avoids jamming, stuttering or banding caused by the z-axis not being perfectly aligned vertically. The following picture shows an assembled Oldham Coupler at the left side. The one at the right side isn't completely taken apart, I just moved the parts for illustrating how it looks and works. @@ -906,7 +934,6 @@ If you go with this solution, I'd highly recommend to use additional ["Oldham Co - User ["chiz"](https://www.printables.com/de/@chiz_m) remixed the abovementioned solution from DrumsticknDrumstick and came up with a [timing belt driven dual z-axis](https://www.printables.com/de/model/462038-anycubic-kobra-go-dual-z-mod-with-timing-belt). - User ["ntguest"](https://www.printables.com/de/@ntguest_947839) remixed the solution from DrumsticknDrumstick and chiz and came up with another solution for a [timing belt driven dual z-axis](https://www.printables.com/de/model/531742-anycubic-kobra-goneo-dual-z-axis-mod). - ---